Chapitre 1 : L’arrivée dans un monde nouveau

Vous savez combien de temps ça m’a pris pour venir à Pékin ? Treize heures, seulement treize heures. Pourquoi seulement ? Parce que j’ai l’impression d’avoir changé de planète et je n’ai même pas eu à prendre une fusée. C’est fou comme d’un océan à un autre, la culture, l’histoire et les mœurs des populations peuvent être différentes. Après avoir fait mon premier pas en Chine, je n’ai pas pu planter mon drapeau et j’ai dû m’adapter à ma nouvelle maison. Les chinois ont beau ne pas être bleus, bizarres ou surnaturels, ils parlent une langue très étrange. Heureusement, dans ce monde lointain, il existe une pratique de communication universelle, appelée communément le sourire. Souriez aux gens et ils vous souriront en retour. Souriez aux personnes âgées et elles vous aideront. Souriez et prenez l’envie de vouloir découvrir ce pays tellement contrasté, tel un explorateur.

Lors de mon premier weekend, afin de bien commencer mon aventure, j’ai décidé de visiter avec une amie un lieu qui remontait le temps. La Cité Interdite. Ce palais de plusieurs hectares regorge d’histoire, de tradition, de beauté, d’artistes et d’une grandeur laissant place à l’imagination. C’est à cet endroit que j’ai pu toucher une patte de dragon pour me porter chance, que j’ai appris que le cheval est présage de succès, que j’ai pu voir à quel point les chinois avait ce don de pouvoir dormir partout, mais surtout que j’ai reconnu les très belles scènes du dessin animé Mulan. Visiter ce palais n’est cependant pas une chose facile. Je sais maintenant qu’il faut au moins des bonnes jambes, beaucoup d’eau, une carte, quatre bonnes heures ou en fait même une journée et un TRÈS bon sens de l’orientation, ou plus simplement, une boussole.

Suite à cette visite périlleuse, nous avons traversé la place Tiananmen et vu la tombe de Mao. L’enthousiasme de cette expédition nous avait certes un peu trop emporté mais il ne faut pas oublier qu’en Chine, tout est énorme ! Après une bonne nuit de repos, nous avons opté pour quelque chose de plus modeste, la visite du 798 art district, notre quartier de résidence. Durant cette très belle journée de marche, nous avons découvert avec étonnement des endroits auxquels nous ne nous attendions pas du tout et dans lesquels nous irons avec plaisir ces prochaines semaines pour  faire le plein de beaux souvenirs!

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From Gibson Island to Beijing

My name is Henry Hyde, I am from Gibson Island, Maryland, US of A. I am twenty years old, and am in my last year at university to get my bachelors in International Business with a minor in Asian Studies. This is my fourth trip to China, and will be my longest stay here yet. I have studied Chinese for 7 years and counting, and am still discovering new things about China every day.

I am doing one month of Chinese classes and one month of internship at a subsidiary of IQAir, which makes air filters for homes and businesses.

It is definitely a bit of a shock to get acclimated to China, even for me. A lot of things are different. Back home, I am an avid artist, mainly 3D, and our apartments are right next to the 798 Art District. Even though it’s more commercial than anything else, it’s a nice oasis from the hustle and bustle of Beijing. It’s a little more Hutong style in its construction and much quieter than many other places. There are art galleries, music and art shops, and Eastern and Western restaurants.

My particular fascination with 798 is the graffiti that’s everywhere. It is everywhere and  really gives 798 a personality of young, non-establishment artists. It contrasts with the art galleries in 798 where you’re told to “ooh” and “ahh” at the art, and is actually often good. There’s a graffiti shop where one could buy spray paint and the striking apparel of local graffiti artists (lots of hemp leaves). I would like to try my hand at it, but I’m not sure of the rules and regulations. It seems like a big attraction to the area. I’ll have to return and ask someone about it, who knows, maybe I’ll be Beijing’s next graffiti Michelangelo!

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THE END OF AN ADVENTURE

My last weekend in Shanghai coincided with the 1^st May festivity, so it was in fact a long weekend since we also had the Monday off.

On Saturday, in the early afternoon, the girl who is interning in the same company as me and I decided to take a stroll in the French Concession, a famous part of Shanghai which, believe it or not, we hadn’t visited yet… During the day, that is. The weather was lovely, spring-like again and, combined with the fact that most roads in the district are tree-lined, it really seemed to us that we were in a European capital rather than in chaotic Shanghai. But that’s the beauty of this city, as I’ve already mentioned in a previous blog entry: it’s like having a fair number of different cities packed in one, you just choose which area you like best, and at which time.

We sipped our coffee and our tea and shared a slice of tasty chocolate cake in a cafe built in the patio of what used to be a small church, looked at lovely boutiques and finished our stroll before parting ways: having to buy the last souvenirs, I headed towards East Nanjing Road.

Oh, Nanjing Road on the 30th April… I don’t think I had ever experienced such an enormous crowd, and the best part of it was that I was completely alone: no friends or parents to shield me from people pushing their way and looking at me curiously. I could tell from the looks on their faces that the other very few Western tourists that I encountered felt the same way as me: bewildered and thrilled. And yet, not once did I feel uncomfortable or exposed to danger: soldiers could be seen every two meters, making sure that the crowd proceeded tidily and smoothly on the sidewalk.

That evening was again the turn on the French Concession, more specifically we went for the second time to Yongkang Lu, a short road packed with small pubs and visited mostly by expats. And no, as you can see I’m really not a club person (I tried them a couple of times in Shanghai, but the atmosphere is far too snobbish for my taste), so no tales about getting wasted at the Bar Rouge this time.

The next Sunday was Labour Day and I had been thinking about what to do on this festivity for a while but the choice wasn’t mine to make, apparently: the air conditioning in the metro had done its job and I spent the day in bed trying to sleep, swallowing pills and complaining about my fever and my sore limbs.

Luckily enough, the next day I was feeling better so I could put to good use the train ticket I had already booked to Hangzhou. The trip to this city was overall easier than the one to Suzhou for two main reasons: firstly, this time there was another friend of mine who can speak Chinese (and much more fluently than me). Secondly, visiting Hangzhou requires just two steps: get to the West Lake (easily reachable from the train station by subway); walk around the West Lake.

We were actually impressed by how well kept and modern Hangzhou looks, especially in the areas surrounding the lake. The parks and green areas are gigantic and look stunning. One thing that really didn’t help us was the weather though: I don’t think I have ever experienced a worse humidity in my life (and let it be known that I live in a very humid area myself, so I should be sort of used to it). At a certain point the humidity was so intense that it even stopped being annoying: it simply felt like directly diving into the water. I’ve never felt much of a mermaid but it in Hangzhou it was completely different story.

The rain caught us shortly after and it got at its worse exactly when we were heading by boat to the main island at the centre of the lake (hence the lack of decent photos). We were actually prepared to it since we had checked the weather forecast and did our best not to let it ruin our mood, which wasn’t easy at all, but still the sight of ancient pagodas and pavilions in the fog had its own charm. Needless to say, the rain ceased obviously when we returned to the mainland.

Before taking off for China, I had expected to find a fair amount of foreign tourist, especially in more historical cities like Suzhou and Hangzhou, but that hasn’t been the case: that Monday we were basically the only Westerners in Hangzhou, and the number of people pointing at us and asking to take pictures with these three white girls exceeded every expectation. Don’t get me wrong, it can be pretty fun in the beginning and Chinese people are usually very friendly, but after a whole day (or month, even) of being stared at like a panda in a cage your nerves start to stir.

While the train station in Suzhou was new and modern, and quite pleasant to be in thanks to the shops and restaurants, the same cannot be said for the train station in Hangzhou, which was unexpectedly old-looking, with a scarce number of places to eat, crowded, and incredibly hot: in short, the crying and screaming children, the apparently absent aeration system and the restless crowd pushing its way to the platform for the Shanghai train made it all look more like a refugee camp, but somehow we managed to get to our hotel rooms without big issues.

Tuesday was my last day at work. The saddest part of my internship was arguably saying goodbye to my colleagues, with whom I bonded incredibly well. But as I’ve said to the them as well, it’s a small world nowadays, and I’m confident that goodbyes are not forever.

By the time this blog entry is published I’ll be at home, catching up with my friends and family and distributing souvenirs. I’m happy to go back to my small town where the sky is blue and the air clean and where people will understand everything that I say, and at that the same time I regret not having stayed at least a month longer in China: I would have certainly learned, discovered and experienced more. But my master thesis is still waiting to be written so…

Saying goodbye to China is bitter: despite the pollution, the traffic, the gigantic crowd, the communication difficulties, the huge gap between poverty and wealth, there is something that drawn everyone to this land. And I would be surprised of the contrary: being the most populated country in the world and the third one by extension, with the second strongest economy and such a long, rich history and culture, it would take a life-long commitment to completely discover everything that the Middle Kingdom has to offer. I am sure that I’ll go back to China, whether simply as a tourist or an intern/worker/employee remains to be seen.

My internship in China had its ups and downs and most of the time things weren’t exactly easy, but magic starts to happen outside of your comfort zone, as this experience has taught me. In only four weeks I became more experienced, stronger, and ready to face a wider variety of situations than before- not to mention than my CV looks a lot better now!

 

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7 DAYS LEFT

The title says it all: one week left and I’ll be flying home. The other interns keep saying how time has gone by so fast and how they can’t believe that a month has already passed since our arrival. I, on the other hand, don’t  know what to say about it: to me it seems like I spent an eternity here, and at the same time it all seems like I dreamt; apparently I still need to process the fact that I spent a month interning in the biggest city in the world.

My last weekend in China was pretty intense, which was to be expected since I don’t have a lot of time left and want to make the most of time here in China.
On Saturday the weather was rainy, and rain on free days means of course… Museums. Museum in our case, since we only visited one, namely the Shanghai Museum in People’s Square.

After standing in a line for a good half an hour (which went by fast to be honest, notwithstanding the rain and the wind) we managed to enter the building, which on the interior looks more like a 3-stars hotel from the 1980s (no offense meant, of course). The museum is not massive by any means- on the contrary, we found it quite small, but not all disappointing: being massive fans of Chinese civilization we thoroughly enjoyed the sight of antique, beautifully painted porcelain vases, ancient paintings and fascinating scrolls.
After that, it was the turn for some shopping at People’s Square metro station, where I learned the following lesson: don’t get attached to any item in particular, because chances are that the shop next to the one you’re in (and the next one, and the next one…and the next one) will sell the exact same things, maybe at a more affordable price. Shopping in China takes time and patience, and a hasty person like me learned that the hard way.
The weather was much better on Sunday (and by “much better” I mean completely cloudy and humid but with no rain in sight) so my flatmate and I excitedly hopped on a train to Suzhou in the late morning, eager to see some of the old China. We met a Spanish girl at the railway station travelling on her own so our team ended to be made up of a grand total of 3 people.

After a pleasant 25-minute ride (Chinese trains seem to have the largest leg space ever) and a good 20 minutes spent at the Suzhou railway station trying to figure out our way to the historical part of the city, we finally arrived at the Beisi Ta- or North Temple Pagoda, one of the main attractions of the city. It was then the turn of the Humble Administrator’s Garden, which is probably the main attraction of Suzhou. It was my first time in a proper Chinese garden and I was delighted at the sight of pavilion’s and small lakes. Had there been less people to push their way around and call each other loudly I would have experienced a more peaceful and authentic state of mind, but one can’t have everything.

And it was precisely at the Humble Administrator’s Garden that it happened: a Chinese girl asked to take a picture with me. I had been told by other Westerners that it was likely to happen sooner or later, and it did.

It was after the visit to the garden that thigs started to derail. We booked a boat tour which turned out to be nothing that special, and the fact that the guide spoke exclusively in Chinese the whole time (we were the only Westerners) didn’t help. The whole group was then taken to an exhibition hall pretty far from the city centre where we were actually encouraged to buy silk; since we hadn’t been informed of that activity and we had paid money for something different I tried to speak to the guide but she didn’t look much interested in us. No one looked that much interested in us and I, being the only one in the group who could speak a little Chinese, started to feel a bit helpless because of this situation. That’s another lesson that I learned here: if you’re a foreign tourist, on your own and you can’t speak Chinese, you might get in big trouble.

Being fed up with the situation the three of us decided to exit the exhibition hall and luckily found a taxi driver willing to take us to the railway station (after dodging the abusive ones which were of course waiting outside for potential customers). In fact, we wanted to sightsee a little bit more but didn’t know where to go and how to get there; I still regret deeply not having prepared a better plan before our departure from Shanghai (in my defence, there was supposed to be seven of us on this daily trip, but the others bailed on us on Sunday morning).

However, our tribulation didn’t end there: since we hadn’t bought the return tickets in advance and the seats were all already booked we had to wait at the station for over 2 hours for the first available train, almost missing the last metro in Shanghai.

Once arrived at the hotel, I felt drained and not completely satisfied of the trip. And yet I realized how the huge Shanghai felt like home to me, and how pleasant it was.

 

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TWENTY CITIES IN ONE

Another week has passed and Shanghai is slowly starting to become my home. The first impact with this metropolis was harsh, however, those negative feelings are gradually fading away, and I couldn’t be gladder about it.

I realized that the easiest way to overcome the initial difficulties is to explore the city as much as possible. After all, Shanghai is the biggest city in the world, hence it’s bound to be full of contrasts. It might look like a city from the future in certain areas, like a European capital in others, and a rural Chinese town in others more (just to name a few categories). And no, you don’t have to be in Lujiazui in front of the Pearl Tower to fully appreciate what this city has to offer, and to capture its beauty. Personally, my favourite district in Shanghai is Jing’an (I talk so much about it that I guess people around me just want to punch me in the face), thanks to its perfect blend of local and foreign elements, its clean, modern architecture surrounded by well-kept parks, its tiny bars where stylish youths (both Westerners and Chinese) gather for a coffee or the happy hour. Too often in Shanghai, I felt that the two communities were separated (which, in all fairness, was a big disappointment for me), however, that doesn’t exactly happen in Jing’an.

My second weekend in Shanghai started with a rainy Saturday spent at one of the (in) famous fake markets: great for buying souvenirs, chinoiseries and (maybe) a pair of Onitsuka Tiger, but that’s pretty much it. Also, it could be quite a painful process if you’re like me and don’t like to bargain over items. Didn’t like it in Istanbul, didn’t like it in Morocco. But hey, what needs to be done, needs to be done.

The next Sunday graced us with spring-like weather (which might be a rare occasion in China, albeit the fact that it is Spring technically) so we visited the Jing’an Temple, as we had planned (talking again about Jing’an…). For me, it was the first time visiting a proper Buddhist temple, and the chants of the monks gave me Goosebumps (I had to film them- couldn’t resist). We then made our way to People’s Square, and I only have one word for that place: impressive. The metro station alone looks more like an airport- plus is a great place, as we’ve discovered, to go shopping if you want to avoid the most touristy markets and buy what also the stylish locals wear (platform sneakers, here we come).

As far as the job in the agency goes, I can say I’m pretty satisfied: most of my tasks are marketing-related so I get to be creative, design ads and landing pages, which means writing- which is always good for me.

On Thursday, we had team building, and considering that these activities are organized only 3 or 4 times per year (at least in our company) the other intern and I were quite lucky to take part in it. Team building means essentially to get to know your colleagues better but for me it was also something more since I got to do things I had never tried before: ever heard of the Mr.X Venue for example? It would take me too much time to explain this (and I’m sure the explanation would be rather sloppy as well) so why not check it out on the internet? All I can say is that it’s great fun, trust me and that I already know I’ll miss it when I go back to my home country.

After a great lunch where I got to taste the typical Yunnan cuisine (delicious, by the way- as everything I’ve tried in China thus far) we went to… Yeah, you guessed it. KTV. And what else?!

In all honesty, I was rather sceptical about it. I’ve always known what KTV represents for people here in China (as well as in Japan) but it has never exactly been my cup of it. That was, until I tried it, and realized that staying in nice, comfortable, cosy room with your friends, eating snacks, having drinks and singing (or screaming…) your favourite songs is actually not that bad. No, it’s not bad- it can be awesome if you’re with the right people. I’m actually afraid I might have caught a case of KTV fever.

Another work week is (finally!) coming to an end but since my time in China is rather limited I want to make the most of it. So no, no sleeping till 11 a.m. for me, neither on weekends: this Saturday I’m planning to visit the Shanghai Museum (and maybe do some *cough* shopping*cough* at People’s square metro station and in *cough* Nanjing Road *cough*) and on Sunday we have scheduled our first trip outside of Shanghai: Suzhou.

So stay tuned for more! And keep your fingers crossed for me- I’ve never tried to buy tickets at Chinese railways stations and I hope it won’t end with me messing things up.

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STEPPING OUT OF THE IVORY TOWER

I remember when, back in high school, we used to organize trips abroad and school exchanges. I remember how I would pride myself with being able to adapt to almost every situation, every kind of food, and every kind of weather. Now I got the feeling that those times are long gone.

China really pushed my limits. For a Westerner who has grew up in a small European town, and who has travelled exclusively in Europe and North Africa, coming here was some sort of punch in the stomach- but it is one of those punches that you absolutely need in your life in order to grow as a person.

Shanghai (and China in general) is one of those places that you have to see in order to fully comprehend. I had of course read blogs and testimonials of other interns, so I liked to think that in theory I was more or less prepared. Prepared to face the crazy traffic, the spitting of the locals, the curious faces staring at you, the slow internet, and the frenetic life. In practice, it was a whole different story. More than a week has passed since my arrival and, albeit I’m managing to slowly adapt to the city (slowly, and partially), I’m still feeling all over the place.

Physically, the first few days have been though, to say the least. I was excited and happy to be here- my stomach apparently wasn’t. Nevertheless, after the first sickness and the constant migraines, I found a new energy in this enormous challenge. As a matter of fact, here everything is a challenge, at least if you don’t know Chinese fairly well (and no, my two semesters of learning Mandarin at the Confucius Institute weren’t enough, just like I had expected after all), with buying supplies at the supermarket being no exception. Imagine being the only non-Chinese in one of the most crowded, largest metro lines in the world: you have 23 million people around you, most of them don’t speak English, and you’re likely to represent an exotic attraction to their eyes. From whichever angle you look at it, it can be intimidating and tiring. But God is it rewarding.

After the pickup at the airport (which went smoothly), the first day spent in Pudong (which felt pretty much surreal due to a combination of jet lag and my uneasiness in front of some of the most modern buildings in the world) and the induction day (which was held at a lovely tea house), the first Saturday I decided to attend the Community Outreach Activity, so we visited a school for adults with special needs. I will always remember their smiling faces when we first entered their classroom and how excited they were to play table tennis with us. Activities like this happen rarely when traveling abroad and I’m extremely thankful for it.

As far as the sightseeing goes… Well, doing it in Shanghai on a Sunday it’s not exactly the best idea since the city is packed with tourists from other parts of China (and I mean whole family of tourists) but we had no choice. Nevertheless we limited our sightseeing session to the Yuyuan Gardens, the Bund and Nanjing Road for a quick lunch, deciding to leave the Jing’an Temple and all the rest for another day. I also noticed that the words “distance” and “proximity” have a quite different meaning in a metropolis like Shanghai as opposed than in small European towns- of course.

Was I nervous for my first day of work? Quite so. I hadn’t ever worked in a company before therefore I didn’t know what to expect, and neither if I was prepared for the task. But the key word of an internship abroad is challenge, isn’t it? That’s precisely what I wanted: to step out of my comfort zone and see what I was capable of doing.

My supervisor and my colleagues have been professional and encouraging from the moment I stepped into the office, so they really made me and the other girl who is interning with me at ease. Most employees in the company are not Chinese, which on one hand might seem a shame since I won’t see what’s like working in a Chinese company, on the other hand however it’s maybe easier to work in such an international environment. It’s also a quite relaxed environment, meaning that we often have chit-chat and go to lunch together. Baoshan, the district where my office is located, is a nice residential area packed with clean minimarkets, a few grocery’s, small restaurants, a Watsons (the Asian equivalent of Boots- great for buying toiletries and other supplies, which in China might be a problem sometimes), malls and even a Tesco. Too bad I have to commute at least an hour (in one direction) to get there every day.

The two most satisfying things of the first week were being able to speak a little Mandarin with the locals and exposing my ideas to my supervisors when at work: I’m noticing that I’m growing more and more confident and fearless everyday (hopefully I won’t become too cocky though) and that this experience in starting to expose my skills but also my limits.

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北京小览. Uno scorcio su Pechino

Un’altra settimana è già trascorsa, e si può proprio dire che il tempo è volato! Nel weekend precedente ho avuto la fortuna di visitare la Città Proibita: la residenza dell’imperatore e della sua corte sotto la dinastia Ming e Qing. Costruita nel 1420, è stata il centro del potere politico ed economico per oltre 500 anni. Imponenti edifici in stile tradizionale cinese, perfettamente preservati fino ai giorni nostri, svettano all’orizzonte, in contrasto con il cemento circostante. Un fantastico esempio della modernizzazione di Pechino, che ha tuttavia lasciato un piccolo pezzo del passato a ricordo dei fasti dell’Impero Cinese.

Nel visitare questa gigantesca residenza, si ha davvero l’impressione di tornare indietro nel tempo: immensi cortili si alternano alle residenze dei funzionari imperiali, ai templi splendidamente decorati, alle sale per i concili di guerra, passando per i luoghi dove l’imperatore doveva cambiarsi i vestiti. Inoltre, nella città proibita alloggiavano tutte le mogli e concubine dell’imperatore; poiché non vi era limite al numero di mogli che questi poteva avere(!), si può intuire come mai la Città Proibita sia così grande.

Vale sicuramente la pena trascorrere almeno una giornata in questo intricato complesso di arte cinese, ma consiglio vivamente di non visitarla da soli. In compagnia si riesce ad apprezzare meglio tutto ciò che è racchiuso dentro questa città; e senza ombra di dubbio, i Cinesi hanno fatto proprio questo modo di pensare, considerando il vasto numero di visitatori che girovagano per una città che è proibita! Fu chiamata così poiché vi si poteva accedere solo se si faceva parte della famiglia imperiale o previo invito dell’imperatore.
Abbandonati a malincuore i templi e le residenze decorate di giada, un’altra città proibita la ho trovata nell’ufficio dove ho cominciato a lavorare lunedì presso un’azienda multinazionale che realizza siti web. Curiosamente, proprio l’ufficio del General Manager ha questo nome! Ed infatti non vi ho ancora messo piede. I miei colleghi provengono da tutto il mondo: si spazia dagli Stati Uniti all’Australia, tuttavia la maggior parte sono cinesi, poichè secondo le leggi locali un’azienda deve avere un certo numero di lavoratori di nazionalità cinese per ogni straniero. L’ufficio si trova al terzo piano di un modernissimo grattacielo nel quartiere delle ambasciate , dove centri commerciali e grattacieli svettano con i loro oltre 40 piani. Fin’ora mi sono ambientato bene ed ho trovato colleghi davvero gentili: il lavoro assegnatomi è stato piuttosto stimolante e mi ha già permesso di applicare le mie conoscenze informatiche.

Oltretutto, in questo quartiere vi trovano luogo una miriade di piccoli ristoranti dal prezzo decisamente abbordabile. Il cibo cinese può tranquillamente rivaleggiare con quello italiano, ma spesso e volentieri ci si scontra con cibi decisamente piccanti a cui non si è abituati. Tuttavia, una volta riusciti a padroneggiare le bacchette (impresa tutt’altro che facile: un’altra delle continue sfida per chiunque si voglia avventurare in questo affascinante paese), si possono gustare certe prelibatezze…! La difficoltà sta solo nel scovarle in menù completamente in cinese.

Inoltre, come occidentale a Pechino inizialmente si ha una strana sensazione: in metropolitana o in giro per le strada si viene spesso “scrutati”, ma se si guarda a propria volta il curioso osservatore, questi distoglie sempre lo sguardo; durante una cena con gli altri stagisti di CRCC Asia è persino capitato che dei cinesi ci facessero delle foto! Insomma, una popolo decisamente curioso!
Per concludere, un altro posto decisamente interessante è stato “ The Place”: visto solo di sfuggita con i miei colleghi di lavoro, si tratta di un mega maxi-schermo dove si possono proiettare le proprie dediche o foto per una modica cifra. Ci sarebbero molte altre cose da raccontare, ma certe esperienze di questa mia esperienza a Pechino sono semplicemente indescrivibili.

Al prossimo blog, 再见！贾德乐 丹尼尔

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